Each year in December, there is an incredible flood of Ghanaians who return home. Something that’s become like a part of the culture. It just happens year after year. Between December and the first week in January, EVERYONE goes home. It is really one of the best times of the year in Ghana. It feels like a national party. The whole ‘air’ is different. Everything feels different. God knows who you’ll run into around the corner or who you’ll hook up with 
. It’s just a beautiful thing.
One of the worst Christmas I ever had was December 2003, my first Christmas outside Ghana. It was bad. I was in London, and the whole city was dead. No cabs, no trains, nothing. It was just me and my friend Teki. We went to someone’s house briefly I think, but had to return home quickly before the cabs completely quit. It was cold and just plain miserable.
Ghana Christmas is the opposite. The whole country literally comes alive. There is always something happening somewhere. You go to Church with your family in the morning and then you ‘chilup’ the rest of the day. It’s mad fun the entire season. Alas, for the second year in a row, I’m going to miss this incredible fervor and it kills me! But my family decided to leave the wonderful hustle and bustle of Christmas in Ghana and join me in the semi-cold of Atlanta. I can live with that.
I do want to know though, what the heck is this craziness around Christmas in Ghana? Why does everyone go back? Is it really that much fun (damn it, it is!)? And what do people do while they’re there? What do people look forward to?
Kojo J: Piccadily biscuits, coca-cola and knock-outs.
Estella: I love the heat-the parties outside! Family all in your business. The Ghanaian commercialness of it all. I want to buy stuff but it doesn’t feel like do or die like it does here. I missing seeing folks that you only want to see once a year. Kinda like July 4th here: 1x a year is enough. And the people watching/being watched, it’s a very nice high. Visiting and being visited. That’s what I think I miss most about Christmas in Ghana, visiting folks. And Christmas hymns, I actually went online to find some the other day. I hadn’t heard real hymns in that long. I also miss the smell of cake and meat pie. And the ever so small feeling of guilt I would get being at the club/or spot on the 24th night knowing in a few hours I would be in church. But I just miss the Christmas in the air feeling. At first I thought it was a kid thing, but I was talking to another friend from Ghana who went home last year Christmas and we concluded Christmas in the air is a Ghana thing, not a kid thing. And do you remember planning your outfits? Here, many churches don’t have church on Christmas day, and if they do its so damn cold you might as well ear jeans. Because of the smell of Christmas in Ghana thing-people are still shelling out big bucks to go home.
NYA: Women, all kinds, the shear numbers, the variety from all the different parts of the world gathered in Ghana. The ones I like the most are the London girls with the Hennessey bottles in their purses. The ones I hate the most are the London guys with the purses and matching sandals. But through it all, it’s family first.
Kwasi: The food and family. Culturally people have gone where they were born to celebrate Christmas. You can go home and be yourself and have a good time. Back in the day, on 24th people pick up their polythene bags and go to their villages and celebrate. It’s the same thing now. Everyone tries to go home as much as possible. It’s just a Ghanaian thing I guess. And the youth have kinda taken it to a different level.
Pk: We don’t have that type of western Christmas, with lights and trees, but it’s still the best place for Christmas. The main reason is seeing family and being with loved ones. It’s just knowing that you have access to family and friends. But honestly, it’s being able to get away from here, really!
Christabel: The bottom line is for us Christmas is a nation-wide celebration. It’s a family affair but it’s also nation-wide. Last year, I didn’t go and it was sad as hell. It was just me, Pk, Kwame and Akin at home. There was nothing going on anywhere. In Ghana, Christmas is going outside, seeing the people on the streets. It’s not something you just do indoors with just your family, it’s the going out. Now it’s even become more of an exodus, because people are using that time to get married, and do a whole lot of festivities. Here, it’s just you and your nuclear family indoors. Those are the big things I can think off.
Akomeah: Ghana at Christmas is a jewel. I can’t imagine anywhere that will be more laid back, more fun, and more friendly. I love that I am able to spend Christmas with my family and at the same time catch up with old friends (based in Ghana and elsewhere…) and still make some new friends. I enjoy the street noises; indistinct noises of people talking whiles the street vendor’s stereo is blaring out Boney M’s ‘Feliz Navidad’. I love the fireworks and the Carols service (sang Ghana style) at church. Lastly I get to do the latest touristy stuff, funky local joints and really experience Ghana the way it should be experienced – and with loved ones too. Well worth it!!! Ps: Weddings galore
Kwame: My favorite thing about Christmas in Ghana is the reverse culture shock that I have to go through and encounter all over again. When you’re in North America, you’re accustomed to all the supposed relaxed free will stuff, but its fun to go back and do things the traditional way. For instance, how you treat elders, how you greet them, how to shake hands, all of that. And my family is very traditional so it’s unavoidable. But I enjoy all that. Ah, also asking permission to go out because you live with your parents. Seriously, I miss that.
The other things I really like is the women and how they react to your return. You know, it’s like ‘Smoke has come back from Yankey.’ It’s like you’ve become a superstar all of a sudden. It’s fun, really. I used to do it to others who return, and now its my turn. And also, my mom has been trying to hook me up some girl called Anoa, and I’m curious to know how she’s like. And when you’re back home, the Christianity piece becomes stronger. I’m looking forward to that all over again.
Amachka: After a year filled with the stresses of school, work, bills, taxes, immigration, et cetera, et cetera, nothing beats the feeling of returning home to the pampering arms of family and loved ones, the warm beaches, the good (and free!) home-cooking, reuniting with friends, and that special festive and care-free mode that country goes into at that time…
Ruby: In the US, we’re all spread out, but in Ghana, you get to see everyone at one place. That’s the best part, just reconnecting with old friends. I remember last year or so, I saw this close friend in Ghana for the first time in six months or a year when we both live in the U.S. But I am tired of this hottest party here, hottest party there thing. As excited as I am it’s not so much about the parties, its just being with friends and family. It’s a shame I’m not going this year!
Biggie: It’s the spirit of everyone being excited. It’s a long year. Everyone is so excited and so grateful for life and family. Everyone just relaxes and has fun. And ofcourse the food!. Free home cooked food!
Akua: For me going home to Ghana has always been about enjoying the little things I usually took for granted when I used to stay in Ghana. This includes time spent with close family and believe it or not the smell of Hamattan in the air. And Ghana would never be Ghana without the food!!!! And I’m not taking about the jollof rice and the lot but the simple roadside foods like the grilled plantain and groundnuts, the kelewele, and oh the alasa! Even at this time my parent’s constant nagging to join them to go visit family friends does not perturb me as much as it did during my younger years. My parents always did have a way of including their time in our packed Christmas schedule, by enforcing the Abeasi Christmas Constitution – going out Christmas Eve, Christmas Day and New Years Eve out is totally out of the question. The chilling scene during the Christmas holidays was of course an added plus. Seeing friends you haven’t seen in years and trying to make that great impression. The nightlife, parties and events are always off the chain with everyone trying to out pose the next person. The “flossing”, pretentiousness, the posing… this is what makes Ghana …Ghana!
So what’s your favorite part of Christmas in Ghana? Don’t worry, you can rub my face in it this year. My turn will come!
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[goo.gl] as taken on 15th December 2009" />
